They’re So what’s the difference between the Ubiquiti UniFi UAP vs. the UniFi UAP-PRO?
When it’s running, it will prompt you with a button to “Your UAP-PRO will be in a condition called “Awaiting Adoption,” meaning it hasn’t been “adopted” by (or added to) any network yet. I drilled a 1 inch hole where it’s open in the bracket, then fed a network cable down from the attic and let it hang there.
Believe it or not, you can still find both the When Wireless-N became the latest technology, I upgraded to the Using multiple access points throughout the house has its drawbacks. The house is three stories (the bottom floor is a daylight basement) and has a footprint of 50′ x 100′.
The easy answer is “about $130.” But what you probably care about is whether it’s worth spending $79.99 MSRP for the UAP (or around Visually, the two units look identical — except that the UniFi UAP’s LED light ring glows In an “optimal environment,” both units have a 2.5 GHz range of up to But the biggest different is that the UAP only has a In general, operating in the 5 GHz range is almost always superior to the 2.5 GHz range, particularly in neighborhoods where other WiFi networks exist. Here’s where that becomes an issue. Just follow the steps in the wizard to get up and running: along the way you’ll have to create a new admin user and password (this is only to configure the UAP, and But if the UniFi Controller software doesn’t find the un-adopted UAP-PRO, don’t worry.
You can close down the UniFi Controller software — it doesn’t need to be running for the UAP-PRO to work. I have network cables running through my attic, but none of them actually plug in up there, so I had to clip one of them, put RJ-45 network jack ends on both sides of the cable, and plug both ends into a 5-port network switch (I recommend the Mounting the UAP-PRO to my ceiling was pretty easy. UniFi® AP AC PRO. He enjoys listening to others' opinions before politely pointing out that they're completely wrong. I have setup my Uniquity system with 2 APs. The UAP-PRO doesn’t have its own a web interface to configure, so you have to install a piece of software called the UniFi Controller on one of the computers that’s physically connected to your local network or existing router with an Ethernet cable. We also spend a lot of time in the summer in the back yard, so I also want WiFi coverage outside. UniFi Dream Machines, such as UDM and UDM-Pro. UniFi® AP Outdoor. Taking one or two out of the mix wouldn’t work, since that would leave dead spots in the house. Powering the UniFi AP The UAP-AC-PRO features auto-sensing 802.3af/802.3at PoE support and can be powered by any of the following: • Ubiquiti Networks UniFi Switch with PoE • 802.3af/802.3at PoE+ compliant switch • Ubiquiti Networks Gigabit PoE Adapter (48V, 0.5A) The single-pack of the UAP-AC-PRO includes one Gigabit PoE adapter. I didn’t use the included metal bracket piece in the kit, because it’s designed for industrial acoustic ceiling tile.The UAP-PRO doesn’t have a separate power cord. The PRO is more central, but some devices seem to have difficulty connecting to the LR when moving between the PRO and LR, and so roaming around the house is a problem. UniFi Cloud Keys, such as UC-CK, UCK-G2 and UCK-G2-Plus.
Page 15 • Ubiquiti Networks UniFi Switch • 802.3af PoE/802.3at PoE+ compliant switch • Ubiquiti Networks Gigabit PoE Adapter (48V, 0.5A) The single-pack of the UAP-AC-PRO includes one Gigabit PoE adapter. Rotate the UniFi AP clockwise until the tabs lock into place and the Lock Tab engages. I’ll be the first to admit it’s a In the early days of wireless networking, I used a non-wireless Linksys BEFSR41 router with a single Linksys WAP11 to provide 2.5GHz Wireless-B access to the northern half of the house, which included my home office. He enjoys listening to others' opinions before politely pointing out that they're completely wrong. You really will notice a huge difference.
It uses “power over Ethernet” (or PoE), which requires either a special type of switch that provides 48V of power over the Ethernet cable in addition to its network connection, or you can just use the included 48V power-injector (which I recommend). The UDM-Pro can also host the UniFi Protect controller simultaneously. I centered it visually with the hallway lights, checked from the attic to make sure that space was open on the other side (no air ducts or studs), then mounted the included plastic bracket into the ceiling drywall using the included molly bolts and screws. You’ll have to sign in to the admin interface of your router (that will vary depending on your device), find the Wireless settings, and turn it to “off” or “disabled.” Contact your device’s manufacturer if you need help, or do a web search for how to do it on your particular device.At this point, all that’s left is for you to grab your wireless devices and walk around the house marveling at how awesome your WiFi coverage and speeds are. You still need it to do its routing duties, so you can’t just unplug it from your network. UniFi® AP HD. It will take a minute to initialize. UniFi® AP AC LR. For more details, visit If you need to remove the UniFi AP from the Mounting Plate, insert a flat, thin object like a zip tie or large paper clip in the Security Slot to release the Lock Tab and turn the UniFi AP counterclockwise.The Secondary port is a Gigabit Ethernet port used for bridging.The Reset button serves two functions for the UniFi AP:The Main port is a Gigabit Ethernet port used to connect the power and should be connected to the LAN and DHCP server.The UniFi AP can be mounted on the wall or ceiling.